Hvordan å bytte vifte/varmepakke på C4.

Satt igang med et lite prosjekt idag, med håp om at det skulle være fort gjort..

 

Etter mye banning og sikkert 100 løse skruer og muttrer, får jeg fortsatt ikke løs viftehuset.

Etter litt søking på nett fant jeg ingen DIY på forumet, men på wikihow.com:

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-and-Replace-the-Heater-Core-(Matrix)-in-a-'92-'98-Audi-C4-(100/A6/-S4/S6-)

 

Jeg kommer til å legge til mine bilder og forklaringer senere idag, slik at jeg husker dette til neste gang jeg må gjøre det.

 

Nå er det tilbake til garasjen..

lykke til med den

litt om hvordan jeg gjorde det.

http://forum.vwaudi-club.no/showthread.php?p=837400post837400

viftehuset kan sitte no jæ**i måtte sitte på knær oppe på motoren å ta i alt jeg hadde for å få ut på en bil her

 

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ac.html#blow

denne brukte jeg som hjelp hvertfall

Hehe, joda.. jeg fant jo ut hvorfor den enda satt fast; den prehistoriske pakninga som holder igjen.

Endte opp med å sitte inne i kupe'en og trykke ut hele skiten med høyre fot. DA løsnet den..

 

Har nå fått ut hele boksen, så den ligger på benken. Har nå problemer med å få delt den, har sålangt fjernet 3 små skruer, 4 store skruer og 7 klips. Enda er det noe som holder igjen..

 

Må jeg fjerne alt som har med flapsene å gjøre også? Hadde håpt å slippe å plukke boksen ned i molekyler..

 

(Detta er nok en jobb jeg ville satt bort til et verksted siden de tar 2000kr for å gjøre jobben for oss, inkl pakninger.)

litt usikker på hva du skal dele den for da , men hvis det er motoren du skal ha ut så var det bare å vippe av den låseskiven (3/4 press skive ) så var det bare å dytte ut motoren den andre veien.

Må ut med registeret, er knekt ene tuten serru.

Fant denna etter mye surfing, så den blir skrevet ut og tatt med i garasjen imorgen. Nå er det tid for pils..

 

Plan to be without the car for a few days, especially if you've not done this type of work before.

 

Take your time! You're working on the interior of your car and there are a lot of expensive and irreplaceable plastic, leather and vinyl parts that you don't want to break! Did I mention slow down and take your time?

 

Before you get started, I highly recommend you purchase and have in your hand, the correct heater core. This becomes a huge fiasco because there are 2 versions, and then there are umpteen different qualities and prices of these versions.

 

I've done this job 2 times in 4 months because the first time around I went cheap and ordered a $42.00 "Meyle" brand heater core. It's lower tank blew out completely, on the freeway, with my wife and daughter on board. The car instantly filled up with white steam, we could not see out, and boiling hot water blew all over our feet! I couldn't even keep my foot on the gas pedal because of the burning water.

 

The heater cores come with 2 different size fittings. 15mm or 18.5mm. My car takes the 18.5mm version and it was nearly impossible to find. I finally purchased one from the dealer for $133. Money well spent.

 

Start taking the interior apart first so your hands will be clean.

 

Tools needed at this stage:

-Philips screwdriver

-Slotted screwdriver

-Wide blade tool like a gasket scraper

-Dental pick

-Magnet (telescoping)

-8mm 1/4 drive socket

-10mm 1/4 drive socket

-12" long 1/4 drive extention

-6mm allen socket

 

Optional tools:

-I like to use my little Milwaulkie pistol grip screw driver. It's small, fast and does a great job on interior screws.

-I like to use wobbly sockets because it allows me to hit bolt and nut heads from an angle and that's really handy when doing interior work...which I've done a lot of, at the dealership level.

 

1) Remove the rear portion of the center console:

-Power both seats forward to expose the 8mm bolts at the rear sides of the center console.

-Remove the 2 bolts on each rear side of the console.

-Use a slotted screwdriver to carefully pop off the black plate that's below the center console's rear facing air vents.

-Use a philips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws you've just exposed.

-Power both seats fully back and fully down.

-Pop out the sides of the cup holders by grabbing up under their bottom edges and pulling the bottom edge outward. They're velcro'd in place.

-Pull out the carpet that's down inside the cup holder trough to expose the screw in the upper center of the trough.

-Remove the screw using a philips screwdriver

-Remove the rear facing air vents as one assembly. They'll just pull out now that you have the 3 screws removed.

-Pull up the hand brake lever. Underneath, right where the plastic handle meets the leather surround trim, you'll find a little plastic "lever". Flick it downward to release the plastic handle from the actual metal hand brake lever.

-Slide the plastic handbrake handle off.

-If your car has the differential lock button in the center console ('95 and older)use your flat screwdriver to carefully lift this switch assembly up and out, and then unplug the 2 connectors.

-Under the parking brake lever, just below the little lever you flicked down, is a black plastic plate. Pry it up from the rear and remove it to expose a 10mm bolt.

-Remove this 10mm bolt.

-Using something with a thin wide blade (I use a gasket scraper that I have, which is sort of like a dull wood chisel) Lever the tip down in under the rear area of the shifter wood trim, and pry down levering against the raise plastic center section of the shift console. Be careful...too much "point load" and you'll snap the wood trim!! You've been warned!! It comes up from the rear first, so work your finesse here.

-Lift the wood trim up and off.

-Unthread the shift handle.

-Remove the black plastic surround that was under the wood trim.

-Note that there is a light socket on the driver's side of the shift console. If your shift pattern doesn't light up, replace this little peanut bulb while you have the chance!

-You have expose 2 philips screws just below the wood trim. Remove them.

-The center console's rear section can now come out. Lift the front edge up a little to release the male/female plastic that engage, and then lift the rear, come forward, sliding the parking brake leather boot off, and then lift the console completely out. Be aware of any wires, like if you have an onboard phone with a speaker, etc.

 

Remove the front section of the center console:

-Near the 2 philips screws that you last removed, there are 2 8mm head bolts with heads facing inward, laying verticle. Remove them.

-Remove your radio(make sure you have your radio code!) using the "U" shaped tools into the 4 holes in the corners of the face. If you don't have the tools, make them out of a coat hanger. Bend about a 3" long U and then give the ends a bit of a barb. Push them into the holes in the radio, then force the U's outward toward the car doors to engage the barbs and drag the radio out.

-Remove the 3 electrical connectors, ground connector and antenna connector.

-Use your thin pry tool to carefully pry off the wood trim around the climate control. Go in at the top where the radio was.

-Remove the mirror switch by removing the 8mm bolt just below it. Unplug the electrical connector. If the 4 arrows on the round control button didn't light up in red, now is a good time to replace the 2 grain-of-wheat bulbs inside. This requires circuit board de-soldering and resoldering, but is very doable with bulbs and soldering tool from Radioshack.

-Remove the cigarette lighter the same way as above.

-Use your pry tool to pry off the black fake switches that are at the extreme left and right side of the bank of switches in the console.

-Now use your pry tool at these lower corners of the center vent assembly and pry out the center vent assembly. Remove it completely.

-You've exposed 2 10mm bolts with heads facing inward. They are the lower set of bolts. Remove them. Leave the upper set of 8mm bolts in place.

-Turn the ignition key on, step on the brake and move the shift lever back into 1st gear.

-Turn the ignition off.

-Working from the passenger side. Pull the center console back away from the dash.

-Once it's out far enough, get behind it and unplug the climate control head, and the bank of switches.

-Remove the console from the car.

 

Remove the Glove box:

-Open the glove box door.

-There are 2 10mm nuts in the upper corners and 2 10mm bolts in the lower corners. Remove all 4 and then lift the glove box slightly and finesse the entire box assembly toward you and down until you can get to the foam covered electrical plug at the rear.

-Slide the foam down the wire and unplug the connector.

-Remove the glove box from the car.

 

Remove the ducts:

-Remove the big air duct by gently pulling down from the dash corner's end and then pull to the right to get the other end off.

-Remove the big elbow there on the right side of the tunnel. Just rock it back and forth carefully where it engages the heater box, and then pull it down out of the defroster duct in the dash.

-Just behind this elbow is a 10mm bolt with head facing diagonally downward. Remove it.

-Now pull down on the foot duct that was being held in place by the 10mm bolt. Leave it loose, you don't need to take it out of the car.

-Over in the driver's footwell, things are a mirror image, but you don't need to remove the big upper duct or the lower driver's knee bolster.

-Just remove the big elbow.

-Remove the 10mm bolt that faced downward.

-Loosen the footwell duct and pull it down a bit.

-Finally, there is a red connector and a blue connector there where your center console was up against. Unplug the bottom connector from each. The upper connectors will stay with the heater box.

 

Removing the cowlings and wiper assembly:

-Open the hood.

-Remove the black rain tray by depressing the 4 silver metal clips along that gasketed seal, and lifing the tray up from them and pulling it at an angle toward the driver's side.

-Pop the black plastic caps off the wiper arm bases.

-Remove the 14mm bolts and wasthers that hold the wiper arm bases down.

-Close the hood (you don't need to latch it!)

-Fold the wiper arms into their "up" position and then rock them back and forth gently to brake the corrosion grip of the tapered wiper stalks.

-Remove both wiper arms.

-Open the hood.

-Using a 6mm allen, remove the 4 allen head bolts that hold the wiper cowl in place.

-Remove the cowl.

-Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the wiper arm assembly in place....2 at the passenger wiper transmission, 1 at the driver's transmission, 1 down at the base near the motor's mounting plate.

-Live the wiper assembly out enough to get to the electrical plug. Unplug that connector and remove the wiper assembly.

 

Removing the heater box:

-Use a slotted screwdriver to remove the hose clamps from the heater hoses on the driver's side of the box. The heater valve will stay with the box, so remove the hose from it. Leave it and the short bleeder hose attached to the box.

-Loosen the screw that holds the metal strap and then unclip the metal strap from down along the sides of the heater box.

-Unplug the electrical connectors on the driver's side of the box.

-Unplug the vacuum lines from the driver's side of the box and move all this stuff foward toward that space at the firewall.

-loosen the hose clamp on the big rubber boot over on the passenger side of the heater box.

-Unscrew the 3 philips screws that hold the flap motor box lid to the the Evaporator core box, right there next to the big rubber boot.

-Inside this box, remove 3 more philips screws and lift out the flap motor. Set it there out of the way.

-Now reach down into the rubber boot and swing that big round yellow door out of the way, so the heater box can be lifted out without damaging the flap.

-The heater box is no ready to come out. It is glued to the body of the car and my take some finessing. Slow steady prying by grabbing the curved fan motor area on the driver's side is best. I usually lay some thick blankets on the engine and get up on the engine so I can get a better pry angle with my body. Slowly work at breaking the seal. You can push from the inside of the car too. BE REALLY CAREFUL. BREAK THIS BOX AND YOU'RE SCREWED!!!!

-Continue working on the box until you have lifted it out.

 

Heater box dismantling:

-Go around the outside seam of the box and unclip all the metal clips you can see right now.

-Do the same thing with all the philips screws.

-At the blower motor end, remove the heater valve, the bleeder pipe, and then the little curved vacuum storage tank.

-Remove the big screw you see down inside that round blower area (under where the vacuum tank was).

-On the other side of the blower, remove the 3 philips screws and then take out the big round duct. The blower motor stays in place.

-At the end of the box where the red and blue connectors are, remove the screws at the left and right sides that hold the red and blue flap arms to the flap shafts. Slide the arms off the shafts.

-You've now exposed 2 more screws that hold this flap motor/duct assembly to the heater box.

-Remove these 2 screws.

-Remove this assembly from the heater box, it has a sort of clip on each side, so work around those as they hang up on you.

-You've now uncovered another 2 metal clips. Remove them.

-Just above this area on the driver's side of the box is a "C" clip over the end of a flap shaft. Remove it.

-On the driver's side of the box is a flap motor assembly. Remove the 6 or so screws that hold the cover in place.

-Remove the screws inside that hold the flap motor in place.

-Remove the "C" clip that holds this flap motor's arm to a flap's shaft. There is a metal wave washer and felt bushing that come off too.

-You've expose another big screw down in deep.

-Look around the box on the passenger side in it's middle areas from the side view, and find there are a couple more big philips screws down in the middle. Use a flashlight to locate them!

-With all these fasteners removed, lay the box on it's passenger side and remove the driver's side.

-The heater core is silicone glued to the driver's side.

-Cut the glue away and remove the busted heater core.

 

Now you need to clean the coolant out of the heater box and flaps, and all the duct work that is in your dash, etc.

 

I recommend that you don't disturb the flap positions, just work around them.

 

Putting it all back together is just a reversal of what I've written.

 

Make sure you buy some new closed cell foam so you can make a new seal for the heater box between the box and the body of the car.

 

The fittings end of the heater core is glued in place with a boat load of 100% silicone sealant. Don't forget to do that. Also, the new core should have foam round the top and bottom perimeter, as well as along the sides and bottom. You want airflow to only go one way....through the core's matrix, not around it.

 

When you go back together with the flap arms, they'll only articulate and go back together one way. Just be careful!

 

If you had flap motors that weren't working, now is the time to take them apart and clean the brushes and contacts in them. Or order new ones for $90ea.

 

A tip on installing the newly assembled heat/blower box unit(from a recent post on the forum):

 

Only thing I would add concerns the connector boot from the blower assembly to the internal ductwork. Take out the boot and install it over the blower exhaust first, then feed the entire unit through the opening.

 

Bleeding the coolant:

Note the bleeder screw in that hose that was between the heater valve and the heater core fitting. This is your friend....your fragile plastic friend!

 

Fire the car up, unscrew this bleed screw, turn the heat on high in the car, and run the engine at about 1,500rpm to get a good wave of coolant circulating. When you have a steady stream of coolant coming out of this bleeder, and heat coming out of your vents in the car, then close the bleeder screw (don't over tighten) and top off the coolant, and put the cap on the coolant tank. Make sure your cooling fans cycle! Make sure to add some more coolant after letting the engine cool down for a bit.

 

Hope this has helped speed up an ugly job. Tear down is fast. I can get the heater core in my hand in about 1hr and 40min. But going back together is a slower process, so take your time. You don't want to break anything and you don't want to forget something that causes you to take it all back apart again. Try to think in terms of "When I'm done, I don't want anyone to be able to tell I did this.

Her er først et oversiktsbilde. Her har jeg plukket av deksler etc over vannkassa for å blottlegge varmepakken. Den holdes bare på plass av et metallbånd på oversiden. Noter det veldig skitne filteret.

 

Her er et bedre oversiktsbilde.

 

Her er et innvendig bilde. Her er midtkonsollen demontert, den hvite boksen i midten av bildet er den wirene går til, altså de som styrer flaps. Den blir veldig sprø på sikt, så festene har lett for å knekke.

 

Her er hele varmepakken ute av bilen.

 

Og slik ser det ut etter at den er borte. Legg merke til den råtne pakningen rundt åpningen.

 

Slik så vannet ut som kom ut av det gamle registeret.

 

Og her er det gamle registeret. Det er de to tutene på høyre side som bruker å sprekke.

Huff, jeg ser ikke frem til og måtte gjøre dette noengang. Men uansett kjekt du legger ut bilder:)

Vel.. når jeg nå har gjort det en gang allerede, kan jeg godt gjøre det igjen. Men da helst på min egen bil selvfølgelig.

 

Må bare passe på å sette av nok tid, jeg trodde dette skulle være unnagjort på en 4-5 timer.

Angrer på at jeg ikke tok flere bilder, men siden hele varmepakka var full av frostvæske ble alt så klissete. Jeg sleit litt med å få flapsene til å sitte der de skulle når jeg skulle sette sammen igjen boksen. Brukte sikkert en time bare der..

Vel.. når jeg nå har gjort det en gang allerede, kan jeg godt gjøre det igjen. Men da helst på min egen bil selvfølgelig.

 

Må bare passe på å sette av nok tid, jeg trodde dette skulle være unnagjort på en 4-5 timer.

Angrer på at jeg ikke tok flere bilder, men siden hele varmepakka var full av frostvæske ble alt så klissete. Jeg sleit litt med å få flapsene til å sitte der de skulle når jeg skulle sette sammen igjen boksen. Brukte sikkert en time bare der..

 

hei. kan du forklare meg åssen man demonterer midtkonsollen inni bilen.må denne boksen ut for å bytte registeret eller kommer man til det fra motorrummet????

Denne boksen må ut ja, og den taes ut via motorrommet.

For å demontere midtkonsollen gjør du dette, i korte trekk:

Flytt setene fremover og skru ut de 2 skruene som holder bakre del av midtkonsollen fast. Løsne så ledningen til bakre sigarett-tenner. Løsne skinnet rundt girstangen og løsne resten av konsollen. Løft den så opp over håndbrekket.

 

Begynn så å demontere deksler i selve konsollen, ved bryterne til abs, tåkelys etc. Ta også ut askebeger og dekselet over, skru så ut alle skruer bak dekslene. Du må også ta av dekselet under rattstammen samt under hanskerommet OG sidene av midtkonsollen som går fremover under dashen.

 

Det er rett og slett bare en solid demonteringsjobb for å få av alt i hele biter. Begynn i en ende og skru løs..

Hvis man har automatisk klima, trenger man ikke demontere noe fra midtkonsollen.

Inne i bilen kan alt demonteres fra sidene, slik man gjør for å komme til servoene for styring av flaps:

http://www.nordicaudi.com/index.php?url=arkivet/artiklar/hidden/a1652/a1652.php&var=

Denne boksen må ut ja, og den taes ut via motorrommet.

For å demontere midtkonsollen gjør du dette, i korte trekk:

Flytt setene fremover og skru ut de 2 skruene som holder bakre del av midtkonsollen fast. Løsne så ledningen til bakre sigarett-tenner. Løsne skinnet rundt girstangen og løsne resten av konsollen. Løft den så opp over håndbrekket.

 

Begynn så å demontere deksler i selve konsollen, ved bryterne til abs, tåkelys etc. Ta også ut askebeger og dekselet over, skru så ut alle skruer bak dekslene. Du må også ta av dekselet under rattstammen samt under hanskerommet OG sidene av midtkonsollen som går fremover under dashen.

 

Det er rett og slett bare en solid demonteringsjobb for å få av alt i hele biter. Begynn i en ende og skru løs..

 

takker for den.mener å huske at bare de vannslangene som går inn til batterikassa der app sitter var et helvete å få av faktisk.