oljetrykklampe lyser når motor blir 90 grader 2,7biturbo

har noen problemer med en s4 2,7 biturbo .. lampa blinkker og piper når den blir driftsvarm kommer å går litt..

har prøvd å bytte sensoren men fortsatt samme problemet:-( muligheter for at det kan være oljepumpa?

har tatt av bunnpanna å sjekket silen å den ser fin ut.. skal måle trykket men noen som vet hvor mye trykk det skal være på tomgang med driftsvarm motor?

Audi Engine Repairs:

Audi Engine Repairs - Engine Knock? Low Oil Pressure? How To Diagnose Needed Repairs

Oil pressure light flickering? Engine knock? Both? Major repair problem or minor annoyance? Either way, you should always quickly investigate the source before it becomes an even bigger problem.

 

Oil pressure - or more precisely the lack of it - in certain parts of your Audi's engine can become a major repair nightmare. All engines lose a certain amount of oil pressure over time as normal wear increases bearing clearances. But unusually low oil pressure in an engine, regardless of mileage, is often an indication that something is seriously wrong and requires immediate repairs.

 

That "tappet" noise may be only one sticking lifter but it may also indicate an oil flow problem that will eventually cause damage to at least one valve.

 

A flickering oil light is more difficult to troubleshoot if your engine is not obviously in need of major repair work.

 

Modern engines with hydraulic lifters, tight tolerance bearings and miniature oil filters require conscientious monitoring of oil pressure.

 

The following diagnostic tips (excerpted from "Troubleshooting Low Oil Pressure", Underhood Service, 10/97) will help you determine whether you have a major repair problem or just a minor annoyance.

 

Audi Oil Pressure Diagnostic Tips

A good place to start your diagnosis of a low pressure condition is at the dipstick. Check the oil to see that it's at the proper level (not low nor overfilled). If low, the engine may be burning or leaking oil. Adding oil may temporarily remedy the low pressure condition, but unless the level is properly maintained, the problem may recur.

 

If the engine is leaking oil, try new gaskets or seals to fix the leak. If the engine is burning oil, the valve guides and seals are most likely worn, but the rings and cylinders might be bad, too. A wet compression test and/or leakdown test will tell you if it's the valve guides or rings and cylinders that are worn.

 

The least expensive fix in the case of worn guides is to install new valve guide seals (if possible) without pulling the head.

 

The best fix is to pull the heads and have the guides lined, knurled, replaced or reamed for oversized valve stems. Worn rings and cylinders would call for a complete overhaul.

 

Also note the condition of the oil and make sure it's the correct viscosity for your Audi and climate.

 

Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

 

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure.

 

That's why most car and OE parts manufacturers recommend 5W-30 in modern engines for year-round driving.

 

If the level is okay, the next thing to check would probably be the pressure sending unit. Disconnect the unit and check the warning lamp or gauge reading.

 

If the warning light remains on with the sending unit disconnected, there's probably a short to ground in the warning lamp circuit. Likewise, if there's no change in a gauge reading, the problem is in the instrumentation, not the engine.

 

Bad sending units are quite common, so many mechanics replace the unit without checking anything else to see if that cures the problem. This approach might save time, but it's risky because unless you measure pressure directly with a gauge attached to the engine, you have no way of knowing if pressure is within specifications or not.

 

Most warning lamps won't come on until pressure is dangerously low (less than four or five pounds). So don't assume the absence of a warning lamp means pressure is okay, especially if the engine is making any valve or bearing noise.

 

If a check of pressure reveals unusually low readings, check the filter. It's possible the filter might be plugged with gunk. Replace the filter and see if that makes a difference.

 

The next step is to drop the oil pan and check the oil pump pickup screen. If the screen is clogged with debris, you've found the problem. Also, check to see that the pickup tube is properly mounted and positioned, is firmly attached to the pump (no leaks) and is not obstructed.

 

If the pump is mounted inside the crankcase, the next step might be to remove and inspect the pump. Open the pump cover and measure clearances. Also, check for scoring or other damage. A broken pump drive would tell you something entered and jammed the pump. If the pump is worn or damaged, replacement is your only option.

 

If the pump appears to be okay, the next step is to measure the rod and main bearing clearances. Check the clearances on the main bearing closest to the pump (this has the greatest effect on pressure) and clearances on the furthest rod bearing (this will show the greatest wear).

 

If the bearings are worn, they need to be replaced. But before you do so, carefully inspect and measure the crankshaft journals to check for wear, scoring, out-of-round and taper. If the journals need attention, the crank will also have to be reground or replaced.

 

Other diagnostic checks might include camshaft end play and/or pulling a valve cover or the intake manifold to check the cam bearings and lifters.

 

Remember, excessive clearances or leaks anywhere in the engine's oil supply system can contribute to low pressure.

 

Once you've identified and repaired discovered problems, your final check is to start the engine and make sure pressure is within Audi specifications. Use a mechanical pressure gauge and don't rely on the dash gauge or the warning light to verify that the repairs you've made have eliminated your problem.

 

One Final Warning

If you insist on driving blind and deaf to the obvious warnings coming from under your Audi's hood, the next sound you hear may be a rapping or knock noise from the rod bearings - which will eventually be followed by dead silence as your engine seizes and your Audi coasts to a dead stop.

 

http://www.autohausaz.com/audi-auto-parts/audi-oil-pressure.html

2.7t oil pressure light on (red can) HELP!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Hi everyone,

 

A thanks in advanced to anyone that can help me out with my problem.

 

I will give all the information i can of my problem to help any of you help me!

 

I have a 2000 audi a6 2.7t with 230,000 km

 

The red oil can (dripping oil) is turning on in my car, only at operating temp (right when it hits the middle mark) and only when i start driving. It beeps 3 times and stays on (flashing). After i turn off the car and turn it back on it will not go on until i start driving and it hits opperating temp again.

 

I have scanned the car with a full version vag com software and no unusual codes poped up other then oxygen sensors being bad.

 

I also noticed if you go into instrumments in vag com and click on measering blocks, then go to channel 1. you can see this : oil.press.ok (somthing like that) before my light turns on. When it turns on it will say oil.press.min.

 

Basicly, i have no idea if this is a sensor issue or not as i do not hear any noises coming from the engine or power loss at all. It runs smooth! It previously had the camtensioner and valve cover seals replaced as they were leaking. heads seemed well lubricated. I have been driving the car with the light on for a couple of days with no issues what so ever.

 

I would put a pressure gauge to it but it is unbelievably hard to get to the oil press switch on this motor. Almost impossible without taking so many parts off.

 

PLEASE someone help me figure this out as the stealership will charge me 2 hours or more labour to check the pressure. Which i will end up doing later on (funds are low)

 

Løsning:

 

Re: 2.7t oil pressure light on (red can) HELP!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

problem has been fixed by my self! oil pressure switch was loose and rusted. replaced with a new switch for 26 dollars and runs perfect

Autohidden sier 2 bar på 2000 rpm ihvertfall.

Viss du måler trykk og det er ok,så ser jeg att det er flere som har hatt problemer med kabler/Wiring.

 

http://www.justanswer.com/audi/1wl0u-re-audi-2-7t-150-miles-faulty-oil-pressure-sensor-message.html

__________________________________

http://www.audiforum.ca/a6-c5-typ-4b-1997%962004-80/2-7t-oil-pressure-light-red-can-help-48527/

 

Re: 2.7t oil pressure light on (red can) HELP!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

well on a4 engines there is a wire running on top front part of the engine check if it ripped. I had the same thing, all i did is soldier it back together and bam!!! If car runs fine and its just that light, thats the most common case, happens all the time

takker så mye for hjelp ! skal prøve ut å se hva jeg finner ut i morgen

Ofte når en leter en ting, så finner en annen.

Noen om medlemmene som har hørt om dette før?

 

http://www.autosafety.org/volkswagen-extends-engine-warranties

http://www.autosafety.org/oil-sludge-woes-plague-vw

 

http://www.autosafety.org/uploads/phpeXzZD2_VWOilSludge.pdf

http://www.autosafety.org/uploads/phpYxmWv4_AudiOilSludge.pdf

https://vwoilsludgesettlement.com/

 

 

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/car-chat/132442-oil-sludge-problems-plague-vw-and-audi-a4.html