Tetting skrudde felger..

hei hei ..

Var og handlet meg dekk i går, men da de ble lagt på lakk det i skjøten på de skrudde (RH cup ZW1) felgene mine . Tok av dekket, og midt på felgen ligger en stripe tetningsmiddel som hadde blitt skadet.

 

Noen som vet hva jeg kan legge på igjen her, vanlig silikon, sikaflex eller andre ting?

Fint hvis noen har greie på dette og gir tilbakemelding ganske snart, må avgårde og legge på piggfri vinterdekk nå, blir ikke kos og kjøre med det tror jeg..

Disassembly and Assembly information:

Taking apart your wheels is a piece of cake. It only requires common sense and a little patience. Kodiak suggests to it's racing customers that they take apart and inspect there wheels every year. [This is probably not needed on a street tire.] We have yet to have anyone that hasn't been able to do it on their own. It is important to make sure that the parts are clean when they are reassembled.

 

Use a 12pt 8mm socket on the bolts and heat the lips up with a heat gun for 5-10 minutes before going at them with a rubber mallet. It should take no longer than 2 hours to have them all apart.

 

Use a decent 3/8 drive torque wrench and use a crossover method for tighening. After you torque the wheels put a bead of silicone adheasive over the seal on smooth it out. If you are really worried about leaking just put a very thin coat on one day and follow it up with a second coat 24 hours later.

 

 

Sealing Wheel Shells:

1. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.

2. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec.

3. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.

4. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.

 

If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldnt worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing to want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didnt use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).

 

One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 10* (can't remember the last number) also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars, no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things. Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.

Takk for kjapt svar Mattis Da får jeg dra og handle silikon.