Problem med hallgiver S4 2.2?

Prøvde å søke på forumet, men fant ikke det jeg lette etter.

Har problemer med at bilen kutter ladetrykket over 5000rpm, sjekket med vag-com i kveld og fikk følgende feilmelding:

1 Fault Found:

00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)

01-10 - Signal Shorted to B+ -

 

Hva kan dette skyldes, og hvordan fikser jeg problemet?

Jeg TROR ikke denne feilen fører til ditt problem, du får start på bilen?

 

NOTE: If the Hall Effect sensor fails, the engine can not be started, but if the hall sensor fails when the engine is running, the engine will keep running and the ECU will use the reference sensor and engine speed sensor, but the ignition timing will be retarded by 6 degrees [1].

Kan Hallgiver slites? Slik at man kan skru den ut og se om den er slitt?

 

Fatterns 2.6 sliter med dårlig gange på mellomgass, spesielt når den er kald.

I tillegg til noen veldig spesielle lyder enkelte ganger ved start, høres ut som tenningsbank.

 

Ellers er det jo bankesensor på s4'en så det kan være noe kødd med den, og da er det ikke alltid det genereres feilkoder heller.

Det er vel vanskelig å SE at den er slitt med tanke på virkemåten:

 

The Hall Effect sensor is a semiconductor junction that changes conduction characteristics when exposed to a magnetic field. The Hall Effect Sensor has a metal trigger wheel with a window to expose the sensor to a magnetic field.

Merker det veldig godt i 3. giret...virker egentlig ikke særlig utbredt på andregiret (får jo aldri opp noe supert ladetrykk der uansett).

Da bilen kommer over 5000 rpm i tredje gir (ved full gass), fjusker den et milisekund...også går ladetrykket ned fra 1.5 til 0.9. Prøver sikkert å gå ned til 0.3/0.4, men har stivere wastegate-fjør, derfor holder den seg på 0.9. Har ikke fått feilsøkt ennå, har overhodet ikke aning på hva det kan være

 

Renset KN-filteret mitt for ikke lenge siden, men hvis LMM driver og kødder skulle jeg vel merket det ellers også? bilen går jo som ei kule, med fullt ladetrykk, opp til 5000rpm.

 

andre ting som kan være årsaken ?

Prøvde å søke på forumet, men fant ikke det jeg lette etter.

Har problemer med at bilen kutter ladetrykket over 5000rpm, sjekket med vag-com i kveld og fikk følgende feilmelding:

1 Fault Found:

00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)

01-10 - Signal Shorted to B+ -

 

Hva kan dette skyldes, og hvordan fikser jeg problemet?

 

 

Den feil koden har jeg på min vr6 også (Signal Shorted to B+ -)

Å den er treg å starte å mangler litt guff på toppen over ca 4000rpm..

Fant dette på http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vboost.html

 

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Overboost Cutout?

 

ECU fault code 2224? If you are encountering an overboost condition which is causing the ECU to cut the fuel pump, and you have stored the 2224 ECU fault code, here are some items to check out. You may have a leak in the boost hoses between the turbo exit connection and the throttle body.

 

If you have a hand pump or an air compressor, you can make up an adapter to fit into the hose that connects to the turbo inlet, and this will allow you to pressurize the air from the turbo inlet, through the turbo exit hose, through the intercooler, from the intercooler exit hose, and from the metal intake pipe to the throttle body and check for any leaks. Use a pressure regulator set to about 15psi if you are using an air compressor.

 

You can also do a visual check of the turbo exit hose underneath the car and look for any signs of oil leaking out of the turbo exit hose, indicating a leak. Normally a small amount of oil vapors and mist are sucked in by the turbo from the crankcase breather system, and this oil mist will typically show up outside the hoses, or intercooler connections if a pressure leak is occurring.

 

Check and or replace the ribbed intercooler exit hose as well, these often split open on the bottom side, in-between the wire re-enforced rib areas, due to the crankcase breather oil mist in the system. Removing the hoses and inspecting them is also a good idea on high mileage engines.

 

If you don't have any leaks in these hoses, check the vacuum/boost hose that connects from the back of the intake manifold to the ECU inside the car.

 

See below for details.

 

Engine Control Unit (ECU) Vacuum/Boost Line

 

I have run across a couple of 20V Turbo cars which had a 2224 code stored inside the ECU and were getting the overboost fuel pump cutout, even though the boost was only going up to 1.0-1.2 bar.

 

In the first case this would occur only when the throttle was quickly floored, and would not happen if the throttle was gradually opened all the way. In the first case, it ended up being a defective MAF sensor. In the other case it was only a poor connection at the MAF sensor.

 

Try using some contact cleaner on the MAF connector and terminals, and see if the overboost problem is eliminated.

OVERBOOST PROBLEMS (BOOST TOO HIGH)

Check Lower Waste Gate Hose from Intake Manifold for leaks/restrictions

Check the operation of the Waste Gate Solenoid using the ECU Output Test

Check Vacuum/Boost Hose from Intake Manifold to Engine Control Unit (ECU) for leaks

Pressure test the intake/boost hoses using hose adapter and compressed air regulator adjusted to 15psi.

Check and clean the electrical connections at the MAF sensor

Check Waste Gate Diaphragm for Leaks

Check Waste Gate Valve for sticking or restricted movement

LOW BOOST or Running poor issues

Check for any stored ECU fault codes, are the knock sensors working ok?

Read the Measurement block values using the VAG-COM, look for anything out of the range

Check basic engine timing, flywheel, camshaft and distributor rotor position

Check Throttle Cable Adjustment

Check Air Filter, is it really clogged up?

Check/Replace the Turbo Bypass Valve, check small vacuum/boost hose to this valve

Check Idle Stabilizer Hoses, and other small vacuum/boost hoses

Check basic fuel pressure and correct operation of the rising rate fuel pressure action by applying vacuum or boost to the vacuum/boost hose connection

Check fuel pressure regulator for leaking into the vacuum/boost hose fitting (rich running)

Check ECU moisture trap hoses (fuel filter lookin thang) behind black firewall cover (AAN S4/S6)

Check ECU Connector Terminals for corrosion, remove connector and use contact cleaner

Replace small vacuum hose from Bypass valve to Intake Manifold (3B engine)

Check the Operation of the Multi-Function Temp Sensor (1991 200Tq 20V Only)

Temporarily disconnect Multi-Function Temp Sensor 4 pin connector and recheck boost output (1991 200Tq 20V Only)

Remove and inspect the Intercooler exit hose (Ribbed Hose) and the lower turbo exit pressure hose for leaks.

Check the rubber hose between the intake pipe and the throttle body.

Check Vacuum hoses and their connections at the back of the intake manifold

Check/Replace the coolant thermostat, is the engine running too cold? or too hot?

Check Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Resistance and connector wiring

Check the operation of the Waste Gate Solenoid using the ECU Output Test

Check Waste Gate Solenoid hoses

Check Air Temp sensor resistance at the ECU, and Repair the Air Temp Sensor wiring connections if needed.

Check Throttle Position Switch/Potentiometer for intermittent operation

Check Altitude Sensor Voltage Output and wiring between sensor and ECU

Plug or pinch off hose to lower waste gate and check for maximum boost and overboost cutout

Check Waste Gate for sticking open, defective spring?

Check the Exhaust System Back pressure, possible exhaust restriction

Inspect the Turbo inlet vanes and end play, has the turbo compressor nut left the building? or the turbo seized up, broken in half, or otherwise gone south?

gammel tråd, men ble det noe ordning her? har akkurat samme problem på min bil nå!